THE COSMETIC TESTS THAT MEASURE SKINCARE PRODUCT EFFECTIVENESS
Published June 8, 2023
The origins of Laboratoires FILORGA date back to 1978. Since then, true to our founder Dr. Michel Tordjman's vision, the formulation experts at the FILORGA Research and Development Center have been working tirelessly to develop skin care products that are not only rapidly effective, but also work for all skin types.
Because FILORGA sells results and not promises, we rely on rigorous cosmetic tests carried out in-house, as well as by independent laboratories. In this article, we will explain these tests.
WHAT MAKES A FORMULA EFFECTIVE?
The quality and effectiveness of a cosmetic product depend primarily on the active ingredients that make it up. Active ingredients are those that act on the surface and in the different layers of the skin. Some of them like hyaluronic acid, collagen, or antioxidants are probably already familiar to you.
To create a skin care product, FILORGA selects the active ingredients according to very precise specifications: the effectiveness and safety of each ingredient must be proven by science and its quality must be irreproachable. The search for the right ingredient, a step called sourcing is therefore essential in the development process of a product.
But creating an anti-wrinkle cream or moisturizing serum is not just a matter of mixing. Like star chefs, the experts at Laboratoires FILORGA know better than anyone how to combine these quality active ingredients at concentrations whose effectiveness has been scientifically proven and which will allow them to shine. They also know how to determine, thanks to their decades of experience, the ideal quantity of each ingredient and integrate them into effective and comfortable formulas.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT COSMETIC TESTS PERFORMED BY FILORGA
Before made available for purchase, each FILORGA skin care product undergoes numerous tests. European cosmetic regulations require FILORGA to prove all the benefits that we put forward for each product. Simply put, if we can't prove it, we have no right to say it.
In addition, because we are confident in our manufacturing processes and know-how, we place high demands on ourselves in terms of efficiency. Thus, if a day cream does not give results after 7 days of use, we do not make it.
TESTS CARRIED OUT IN THE LABORATORY
Our in-house scientific team carries out two types of tests to study the mechanism of action of our products, such as the increase of collagen in the skin.
- In vitro tests (Latin for "under glass") are used to observe the effectiveness of an active ingredient or skin care product on the skin cells.
- Ex vivo tests (Latin for "outside the living") are performed on portions of human skin (from voluntary donors, after surgery). Compared to in vitro tests, ex vivo tests provide a more accurate view of the effect of the skin care product under real application conditions, compared to untreated skin
This type of cosmetic test is performed in vivo (from the Latin "in the living"), on women volunteers to test the product. They follow the protocol provided by us for one to eight weeks. This protocol is managed by an independent laboratory: it is validated beforehand by dermatologists who are also responsible for evaluating the results.
Before and after the application of the product, they observe the evolution of skin parameters such as hydration rate, wrinkle depth, skin tone, skin luminosity, etc. The independent evaluator then records their analysis based on instrumental measurements and/or an approved medical scale.
The last cosmetic test we practice is self-evaluation. Participants are asked to complete a satisfaction questionnaire to assess the effectiveness of the product at different time points during the study (immediately after product use, after 7 days, after 28 days, etc.).
These self-assessments reflect the impressions of testers, "real life" people, after using the products.
Our objective with these cosmetic tests is not only to evaluate our products before they are put on the market. We also communicate our results in international dermatology and aesthetic medicine congresses as well as in scientific journals, in order to advance research.
AN EXAMPLE: HOW TIME-FILLER 5-XP PASSED ALL OF OUR COSMETIC TESTS
To illustrate our testing process, we will give you a few examples of the tests performed during the development of our anti-wrinkle cream, TIME-FILLER 5-XP.
IN THE LABORATORY
For our ex vivo test, we used skin explants donated by a 60-year-old woman.
After 6 days of daily application of TIME-FILLER 5-XP, our scientists observed a significant increase in the components of the dermis that help fill in and reduce wrinkles. Compared to untreated skin, this resulted in:
- +25% elastin*
- +59% collagen*
- +34% hyaluronic acid*
These results tend to show that TIME-FILLER 5XP can have a positive effect on wrinkle reduction.
*Ex vivo test on human skin explant. Histochemical analysis after 6 days of daily application of TIME-FILLER 5XP gel-cream. p<0.05 compared to untreated skin.
Conducted by an independent laboratory, this study was based on the following protocol:
- 33 volunteers aged 45 to 65 years
- Skin types: normal to dry, sensitive skin
- Twice-daily application of the product to the face and neck for 56 days
After eight weeks, a significant decrease in the volume of five wrinkles of the face and neck was demonstrated.
*p<0.05 compared to control (day 0 of the same subject group).
The self-evaluation questionnaire filled out by our volunteers confirmed the effectiveness of our anti-wrinkle cream after only 7 days of application:
- 87%* of women noted that TIME-FILLER 5-XP gel-cream had a smoothing effect on their skin.
- The organoleptic properties of the products were highly appreciated with a very good satisfaction rate on the penetration, the texture, the smell, and the feeling of comfort.
- In addition, 9 out of 10 women* said they found their skin looked younger after 56 days of application.
*Clinical study - 29 subjects - after 7 or 56 days of twice-daily application of TIME-FILLER 5XP cream.
For over 40 years, FILORGA has developed strong scientific expertise in the field of skin care. The extensive cosmetic tests to which we subject our products make FILORGA a reference in terms of quality, effectiveness and safety of beauty products. To learn more about our expertise, discover the history and universe of Laboratoires FILORGA.